Doha to Cyprus

It is so nice to be back in Doha after our little holiday in Cyprus. The floors are mopped and the laundry has been put away and I can now sit and have a coffee and try and gather my thoughts.

For the first few weeks I had been feeling very low and in a dark place since my return from Scotland. I was glad I had my sewing machine, and I worked like a crazy woman to finish 24 applique butterflies which I finally finished and put 2 quilts together. I think they are nice, so different, one made from scraps and one from Bali batiks. Of course now I have to quilt them.

One morning when I was feeling quite blue I saw on the Doha ladies’ website that some man was in acute danger and need B+ blood, and there was none about apparently. Immediately I jumped into a taxi and zoomed off to give my all. I was most put out, when I was sent away as I didn’t have a resident’s permit and only a passport. The man lived, and although many people were refused to give a blood donation, due to their nationality (South African) etc, there were plenty with the right credentials. Thank goodness.

I was back at the hospital the next day to get my moles checked, just as a precaution. I had the charming Dr Razan, who had skin like a perfect peach which I am sure had never felt the sun’s harsh rays (she wore a headscarf). She went over me with a magnifying glass; making a map … I looked a bit like a starry night, with little dots all over me. I was mortified when she looked at a place where the sun definitely NEVER shines, and then the soles of my feet and palms of my hands. Three places which are great harbourers of melanoma!! Well, there we go. I have a clean bill of health, with not even one freckle that she is vaguely worried about. Good news.

John and I flew to North Cyprus for the Eid holiday. It has been a year since we were there but it just took a quick mop of the floors and some fresh air to blow around the apartment and it was as though it was yesterday. The sun set over the Kyrenia hills and we drank some Efes beer and walked by the Mediterranean and in the following days we soon picked up the gentle pace of life.

Around us were Russians and Ukranians, and for a while it was as though we were back in Kiev, hearing the ‘Dobroye utros’ in greetings, the ‘spasibas’, ‘pajalstas and ‘harashos’. The skinny, beautiful girls didn’t seem interested in tractor driving at all.

We had seen a house on the internet (as you do) and decided to pursue the interest. We drove off with the rep from Busy Bees, and drove to west of Kyrenia to a village nestled in the mountains called Malatya. The house was a dream, all pale blue and white, nestled back off the road, and perched above a very steep drive way. I was reminded of Heidi climbing the Alm to stay with her grandfather.

‘Could this be the house for an ageing Granny?’ I wondered, ‘Would zimmers make it up and down the hill?’

 

 

Nevertheless, we both fell in love with it for the views. There were the mountains, and in the distance the blue, blue sea and around us, hidden gardens tucked away, with bushes and colour just dripping everywhere. Olives and lemons fell abandoned. The ground floor and stairs were all Italian white marble. Oh sigh. The lady had apparently lived there for 20 years but her husband had died 2 years ago.

We did consider living there, but at the back of my mind I felt like Napoleon, living in exile. Cyprus is not our home; it belongs to two groups of troubled people with a very sad history.

We heard stories of the war, of how the Greeks massacred and killed an entire village just outside of Iskele, where we live. Of how the Greeks treated the Turks like low class citizens, making them the underdogs. That is why Turkey sent in the troops. (well maybe). It is a point of view. The man talking to us told us of his life in Larnaka before the war. His prize possession was a bicycle. He now owns 4 Mercedes cars, and has a thriving Taxi business in Iskele (the Turkish translation of the Greek word, Larnaka and where many of the Turks came to resettle). No way does he want to go back to how it was, but the Greeks refuse to compromise. They want unification, but on their terms. Our man said the situation is like a tinder box. Anything can happen; no one knows what tomorrow will bring. In the meantime, the UN soldiers drink orange juice in the cafes of Famagusta and 300,000 Turkish Cypriots and Greek Cypriots live in harmony in London. It is only when they return to their homeland that they decide that they cannot possible agree on anything.

So we ate fish and tomatoes and pitta bread. We walked through the fields and along the shore to the newly renovated Cyprus Gardens Hotel (and Casino). The Turks don’t condone gambling in their own country, so instead they pump huge amounts of money into Cyprus, and there are casinos everywhere. Plenty of money to be sure, but there is no evidence that it is helping the farmers or the common people or the general economy.

Anyway we sat under a tree and looked out at the sea. I felt as though I was in a scene from F. Scott Fitzgerald’s ‘Tender is the Night’. I thought of the roles of Dick Diver and his schizophrenic wife, Nicole, and the dark gloom that seemed to hover over their lives in the South of France. I must read it again. The place had an atmosphere.

 

Walking back along the beach we came across a very large dead turtle. A gash was on its side and a flipper had been cut. Perhaps it got entangled with a boat propeller, or a shark or what?? Poor thing. John tried to push it out into the waves, but as in all things, the sea just washed it back up on to the shore again, where the crows were waiting.

We left the North of the island and drove to Larnaka for our last night.

It was my birthday and we celebrated in the most beautiful, quirky Greek Art restaurant, and made friends with a large party also celebrating. We ate lamb and drank red wine, and it was a happy time. We walked out to the marina under a full moon and red signs in English, Greek, and Russian, and smiled at people wearing T shirts that announced they “Live to Party, Party to Live”. Fine.

And now, I am back in Doha, and am going to make Sicilian squash and chickpea stew. No doubt John will be thrilled about that.

He has just rung to say that an English school teacher has been murdered here. Her body was found in the desert, burnt. She was 24 years old, and the suspects have been arrested.

I am so upset for her, and her family. It is unthinkable. How precious we all are, to each other and to our families. We must live and give thanks. We have so much.

Posted in Doha - Qatar- 2013 | Leave a comment

Natasha and Leo’s wedding

I feel like Mrs Bennet, with 2 married daughters! Here I am back in Doha and the summer in Edinburgh, and the wedding in Wales feels like a dream.

This time last Thursday, just a week ago, Natasha and I were making sandwiches, then later Gerry, Cathal and I were assigned the task of blowing up helium balloons for the Penarth Hall, then we ate dinner in the Glendale Hotel and Nick arrived from Australia, and we met Leo’s family for the first time. It was all a whirlwind.

Natasha and I shared a room and the bridal dress hung in its ghostly wrap on the wardrobe door.

The morning was a confusion of girls and mascara and dressing. Finally Tasha was ready, and the dress zipped up and she stood with all the beauty and grace of a bride.

Dave had arrived and even though I hadn’t seen him for about 15 years, it wasn’t too awkward.

He walked her down the aisle of the Cardiff City Hall, and Leo’s eyes were wet as she joined him. Bridesmaid, Nicky read an extract from the Velveteen Rabbit, the part when they talk about what being REAL was.

There was a flurry of photos, and a feeling of panic as the rain was pouring down and taxis were nowhere to be seen.But we got down to the Fig Tree and to the Marquee which was on the deck, and we milled about trying to keep dry, and drank champagne until the food arrived and then there were the speeches which were sparkling and funny. Natasha and Leo looked enclosed in their own private bubble, impervious to the rain, just glowing with happiness.

The Penarth Hall was transformed. Nia and Amy had decorated it with the bunting made by my friends Carol and Rose and I here in Doha, and the paper flowers by Irene in Edinburgh. It was wonderful and the Cat’s Claw Ceilidh Band had us all organised and dancing till dawn. There was one respite at 9pm when the Chinese Lion dancers appeared with drums and noise and colour….it was amazing. These were part of Natasha and Leo’s kung fu class.

Now the happy pair are off to Naples to relax, away from house renovations and wedding preparations. They plan to climb Vesuvius and visit Pompeii, and the rest of us have scattered back to our own lives. Nick texted that he was back in Sydney safe and sound, Gerry and Cathal are signing up their mortgage for the house that they have just bought in Dalmeny just outside Edinburgh and I have flown back to Doha. I am so tired, emotionally, and physically…I looked in at my sewing room and just had to walk back out. I don’t have the energy to thread a needle.

The next big excitement will be when Natasha has her baby in February.  Where have the years gone? I shall have to practise being Granny Gael!

Posted in Doha - Qatar- 2013 | Leave a comment

Home News – round and about

Whoosh! The time has flown. We seem to have hit the tarmac running, and I am reminded of my hairdresser in Adelaide describing how he hyperventilates when he lands in Sydney as the pace of life just accelerates. (This is Steve who bought an ex racehorse to train and compete in dressage competitions in order to fill in his spare time! Hmmm.

Anyway on a more normal level we have been racing about the country, John to the south to visit kids and sisters, me to Wales to visit the bride-to-be and Leo.

I do like Penarth and the little house that Natasha and Leo bought in December. Of course now it is almost demolished on the inside, as rooms have been opened, walls have been broken down, bathroom has been relocated and French doors put in…all at the same time. I was quite horrified to see the old bath still in the middle of the kitchen and even more bemused when I found myself in it the following morning!

It’s amazing how quickly you get off the high horse and just go with the flow! The pair are full of plans and the plumbing for the new bathroom is to start soon and all the fitments bought so Natasha was just bending my ear about possible floor coverings…tile, wood, slate, lino etc etc. I can’t wait to see the completed house, and I think it will be finished before the stupid Edinburgh Tram Works which seem to be never-ending.

I had some art work to share my room with!

So wedding plans are in full swing, and I am delighted to announce that I shall be Granny Gael in the New Year! (maybe the above ‘art picture’ is a sign of what is to come!!!

We spent lovely sunny days wandering about Penarth and the surrounding area and wandered about the Llandaff cathedral where the bishop who gave his name to a particularly lovely dahlia presided.

We visited Barry Island, legendary home of ‘Gavin and Stacey’ and lost a whole £3 on the gaming machines…on the 2p tables. Such fun! My most inexpensive day so far!

Before I left Doha Carol, Rose and I sewed up the bunting that John had carefully cut out, and we had about 150 m of the stuff…Tasha and friend tried it out in the church hall, and it is perfect. Phew!

John collected me and we drove over to the Mumbles in the Gower Peninsula, and walked down to the sea on one of the Three Cliff walks passing the Rest Home that once was the house of Dylon Thomas.

I knew that Joyce and Al from the US were visiting in the area, (friends from Sabah days around 1982) so I said to John as we drove through Bishopstone…’drive slowly, you never know’. Well! There they were, and we had lunch and it was wonderful. Their little grandson was intent in licking all the chips, but we shall gloss over that! ‘My name is Tor and I am free.’ Ok. We have all that ahead of us!

We stayed the night in a beautiful Georgian hotel in Ross-on-Wye….Oh my! What a pretty town, all medieval and quaint, and the sun shone and we drank a bottle of red wine overlooking the greenest of gardens and celebrated the last day of John’s old year before he woke up to his birthday.

Onwards to Evesham where we had lunch with his sister Di and husband Roy, who were also looking after a baby grandson. This pair needed L’s on their backs as they struggled with gadgets and prams, and John marched round and round pushing the reluctant sleeper to sleep. The wasps were plaguing me and the salad, so lunch outside under the trees had to be abandoned, unfortunately. Good to see them though.

The holiday seems to have been centred around houses somehow. We had idly thought of moving from the city, and so set up a couple of viewings of places that included gardens and garages etc, and went to the pretty village of Dunkeld, the gateway to the Highlands. But alas, the house was too dinky, and too remote. The cathedral on the banks of the River Tay was worth a look, and we duly quoted the poet, McGonagall’s verse about the silvery Tay that runs from Perth to Dundee a day!

Gerry and Cathal are house hunting like mad.

We went with Gerry on Sunday and looked at areas outside Edinburgh, where you should be able to find a house with a few bedrooms that would fall into their budget. But it is so depressing. The estates that have grown up are without local amenities, people commute to work so there is no evidence of a community. Some don’t even have a decent bus service. It felt like a wildernesses of loneliness. As Billy Connolly once said about some of the dreadful housing schemes in Glasgow, they are ‘deserts wi  windaes’. Anyway they are looking about and are off to see some more this weekend, I am sure the right place will turn up soon.

John is off back to Doha now, but we did have a good break, though a little frenzied. Ideally it would have been good to have had one more week together for just walking about and cycling and enjoying this pretty city. We did have a laugh walking back from town and seeing some lads shouting at one another….John commented that there were a lot of foreigners about.  I told him that they weren’t foreign, they were very very local and what they were actually saying was, ‘Shut yer mooth!’ in a variety of aggressive ways! Following that incident we then  had the pleasure of meeting a very ‘big mooth’ in the Botanics.

‘Whit dae you dae?’ he asked John then didn’t wait for an answer but proceeded to tell us the story of his life. He was personable and funny but what I loved was the language…he told us that he had been giving evidence in court, and he refused to listen to the prosecuting lawyer, instead he transferred his mind to his herbaceous border. He thought about his delphiniums and butterflies, and he just refused to let the man get him riled. When he was asked to give his opinion of the accused, he told the judge, ‘he was so crooked he couldn’t lie straight in his bed!’

He went on, ‘You can haud a thief’s hand, but you cannae haud a liar’s tongue!’

The judge was so impressed apparently she has been known to quote our friend on many an occasion!

Love it, love the people we meet, the stories we hear.

Some photos from here and there…

Whoosh! The time has flown. We seem to have hit the tarmac running, and I am reminded of my hairdresser in Adelaide describing how he hyperventilates when he lands in Sydney as the pace of life just accelerates. (This is Steve who bought an ex racehorse to train and compete in dressage competitions in order to fill in his spare time! Hmmm.

Anyway on a more normal level we have been racing about the country, John to the south to visit kids and sisters, me to Wales to visit the bride-to-be and Leo.

I do like Penarth and the little house that Natasha and Leo bought in December. Of course now it is almost demolished on the inside, as rooms have been opened, walls have been broken down, bathroom has been relocated and French doors put in…all at the same time. I was quite horrified to see the old bath still in the middle of the kitchen and even more bemused when I found myself in it the following morning!

It’s amazing how quickly you get off the high horse and just go with the flow! The pair are full of plans and the plumbing for the new bathroom is to start soon and all the fitments bought so Natasha was just bending my ear about possible floor coverings…tile, wood, slate, lino etc etc. I can’t wait to see the completed house, and I think it will be finished before the stupid Edinburgh Tram Works which seem to be never-ending.

I had some art work to share my room with!

So wedding plans are in full swing, and I am delighted to announce that I shall be Granny Gael in the New Year! (maybe the above ‘art picture’ is a sign of what is to come!!!

We spent lovely sunny days wandering about Penarth and the surrounding area and wandered about the Llandaff cathedral where the bishop who gave his name to a particularly lovely dahlia presided.

We visited Barry Island, legendary home of ‘Gavin and Stacey’ and lost a whole £3 on the gaming machines…on the 2p tables. Such fun! My most inexpensive day so far!

Before I left Doha Carol, Rose and I sewed up the bunting that John had carefully cut out, and we had about 150 m of the stuff…Tasha and friend tried it out in the church hall, and it is perfect. Phew!

John collected me and we drove over to the Mumbles in the Gower Peninsula, and walked down to the sea on one of the Three Cliff walks passing the Rest Home that once was the house of Dylon Thomas.

I knew that Joyce and Al from the US were visiting in the area, (friends from Sabah days around 1982) so I said to John as we drove through Bishopstone…’drive slowly, you never know’. Well! There they were, and we had lunch and it was wonderful. Their little grandson was intent in licking all the chips, but we shall gloss over that! ‘My name is Tor and I am free.’ Ok. We have all that ahead of us!

We stayed the night in a beautiful Georgian hotel in Ross-on-Wye….Oh my! What a pretty town, all medieval and quaint, and the sun shone and we drank a bottle of red wine overlooking the greenest of gardens and celebrated the last day of John’s old year before he woke up to his birthday.

Onwards to Evesham where we had lunch with his sister Di and husband Roy, who were also looking after a baby grandson. This pair needed L’s on their backs as they struggled with gadgets and prams, and John marched round and round pushing the reluctant sleeper to sleep. The wasps were plaguing me and the salad, so lunch outside under the trees had to be abandoned, unfortunately. Good to see them though.

The holiday seems to have been centred around houses somehow. We had idly thought of moving from the city, and so set up a couple of viewings of places that included gardens and garages etc, and went to the pretty village of Dunkeld, the gateway to the Highlands. But alas, the house was too dinky, and too remote. The cathedral on the banks of the River Tay was worth a look, and we duly quoted the poet, McGonagall’s verse about the silvery Tay that runs from Perth to Dundee a day!

Gerry and Cathal are house hunting like mad.

We went with Gerry on Sunday and looked at areas outside Edinburgh, where you should be able to find a house with a few bedrooms that would fall into their budget. But it is so depressing. The estates that have grown up are without local amenities, people commute to work so there is no evidence of a community. Some don’t even have a decent bus service. It felt like a wildernesses of loneliness. As Billy Connolly once said about some of the dreadful housing schemes in Glasgow, they are ‘deserts wi  windaes’. Anyway they are looking about and are off to see some more this weekend, I am sure the right place will turn up soon.

John is off back to Doha now, but we did have a good break, though a little frenzied. Ideally it would have been good to have had one more week together for just walking about and cycling and enjoying this pretty city. We did have a laugh walking back from town and seeing some lads shouting at one another….John commented that there were a lot of foreigners about.  I told him that they weren’t foreign, they were very very local and what they were actually saying was, ‘Shut yer mooth!’ in a variety of aggressive ways! Following that incident we then  had the pleasure of meeting a very ‘big mooth’ in the Botanics.

‘Whit dae you dae?’ he asked John then didn’t wait for an answer but proceeded to tell us the story of his life. He was personable and funny but what I loved was the language…he told us that he had been giving evidence in court, and he refused to listen to the prosecuting lawyer, instead he transferred his mind to his herbaceous border. He thought about his delphiniums and butterflies, and he just refused to let the man get him riled. When he was asked to give his opinion of the accused, he told the judge, ‘he was so crooked he couldn’t lie straight in his bed!’

He went on, ‘You can haud a thief’s hand, but you cannae haud a liar’s tongue!’

The judge was so impressed apparently she has been known to quote our friend on many an occasion!

Love it, love the people we meet, the stories we hear.

Some photos from here and there…

Whoosh! The time has flown. We seem to have hit the tarmac running, and I am reminded of my hairdresser in Adelaide describing how he hyperventilates when he lands in Sydney as the pace of life just accelerates. (This is Steve who bought an ex racehorse to train and compete in dressage competitions in order to fill in his spare time! Hmmm.

Anyway on a more normal level we have been racing about the country, John to the south to visit kids and sisters, me to Wales to visit the bride-to-be and Leo.

I do like Penarth and the little house that Natasha and Leo bought in December. Of course now it is almost demolished on the inside, as rooms have been opened, walls have been broken down, bathroom has been relocated and French doors put in…all at the same time. I was quite horrified to see the old bath still in the middle of the kitchen and even more bemused when I found myself in it the following morning!

It’s amazing how quickly you get off the high horse and just go with the flow! The pair are full of plans and the plumbing for the new bathroom is to start soon and all the fitments bought so Natasha was just bending my ear about possible floor coverings…tile, wood, slate, lino etc etc. I can’t wait to see the completed house, and I think it will be finished before the stupid Edinburgh Tram Works which seem to be never-ending.

I had some art work to share my room with!

So wedding plans are in full swing, and I am delighted to announce that I shall be Granny Gael in the New Year! (maybe the above ‘art picture’ is a sign of what is to come!!!

We spent lovely sunny days wandering about Penarth and the surrounding area and wandered about the Llandaff cathedral where the bishop who gave his name to a particularly lovely dahlia presided.

We visited Barry Island, legendary home of ‘Gavin and Stacey’ and lost a whole £3 on the gaming machines…on the 2p tables. Such fun! My most inexpensive day so far!

Before I left Doha Carol, Rose and I sewed up the bunting that John had carefully cut out, and we had about 150 m of the stuff…Tasha and friend tried it out in the church hall, and it is perfect. Phew!

John collected me and we drove over to the Mumbles in the Gower Peninsula, and walked down to the sea on one of the Three Cliff walks passing the Rest Home that once was the house of Dylon Thomas.

I knew that Joyce and Al from the US were visiting in the area, (friends from Sabah days around 1982) so I said to John as we drove through Bishopstone…’drive slowly, you never know’. Well! There they were, and we had lunch and it was wonderful. Their little grandson was intent in licking all the chips, but we shall gloss over that! ‘My name is Tor and I am free.’ Ok. We have all that ahead of us!

We stayed the night in a beautiful Georgian hotel in Ross-on-Wye….Oh my! What a pretty town, all medieval and quaint, and the sun shone and we drank a bottle of red wine overlooking the greenest of gardens and celebrated the last day of John’s old year before he woke up to his birthday.

Onwards to Evesham where we had lunch with his sister Di and husband Roy, who were also looking after a baby grandson. This pair needed L’s on their backs as they struggled with gadgets and prams, and John marched round and round pushing the reluctant sleeper to sleep. The wasps were plaguing me and the salad, so lunch outside under the trees had to be abandoned, unfortunately. Good to see them though.

The holiday seems to have been centred around houses somehow. We had idly thought of moving from the city, and so set up a couple of viewings of places that included gardens and garages etc, and went to the pretty village of Dunkeld, the gateway to the Highlands. But alas, the house was too dinky, and too remote. The cathedral on the banks of the River Tay was worth a look, and we duly quoted the poet, McGonagall’s verse about the silvery Tay that runs from Perth to Dundee a day!

Gerry and Cathal are house hunting like mad.

We went with Gerry on Sunday and looked at areas outside Edinburgh, where you should be able to find a house with a few bedrooms that would fall into their budget. But it is so depressing. The estates that have grown up are without local amenities, people commute to work so there is no evidence of a community. Some don’t even have a decent bus service. It felt like a wildernesses of loneliness. As Billy Connolly once said about some of the dreadful housing schemes in Glasgow, they are ‘deserts wi  windaes’. Anyway they are looking about and are off to see some more this weekend, I am sure the right place will turn up soon.

John is off back to Doha now, but we did have a good break, though a little frenzied. Ideally it would have been good to have had one more week together for just walking about and cycling and enjoying this pretty city. We did have a laugh walking back from town and seeing some lads shouting at one another….John commented that there were a lot of foreigners about.  I told him that they weren’t foreign, they were very very local and what they were actually saying was, ‘Shut yer mooth!’ in a variety of aggressive ways! Following that incident we then  had the pleasure of meeting a very ‘big mooth’ in the Botanics.

‘Whit dae you dae?’ he asked John then didn’t wait for an answer but proceeded to tell us the story of his life. He was personable and funny but what I loved was the language…he told us that he had been giving evidence in court, and he refused to listen to the prosecuting lawyer, instead he transferred his mind to his herbaceous border. He thought about his delphiniums and butterflies, and he just refused to let the man get him riled. When he was asked to give his opinion of the accused, he told the judge, ‘he was so crooked he couldn’t lie straight in his bed!’

He went on, ‘You can haud a thief’s hand, but you cannae haud a liar’s tongue!’

The judge was so impressed apparently she has been known to quote our friend on many an occasion!

Love it, love the people we meet, the stories we hear.

Some photos from here and there…

Whoosh! The time has flown. We seem to have hit the tarmac running, and I am reminded of my hairdresser in Adelaide describing how he hyperventilates when he lands in Sydney as the pace of life just accelerates. (This is Steve who bought an ex racehorse to train and compete in dressage competitions in order to fill in his spare time! Hmmm.

Anyway on a more normal level we have been racing about the country, John to the south to visit kids and sisters, me to Wales to visit the bride-to-be and Leo.

I do like Penarth and the little house that Natasha and Leo bought in December. Of course now it is almost demolished on the inside, as rooms have been opened, walls have been broken down, bathroom has been relocated and French doors put in…all at the same time. I was quite horrified to see the old bath still in the middle of the kitchen and even more bemused when I found myself in it the following morning!

It’s amazing how quickly you get off the high horse and just go with the flow! The pair are full of plans and the plumbing for the new bathroom is to start soon and all the fitments bought so Natasha was just bending my ear about possible floor coverings…tile, wood, slate, lino etc etc. I can’t wait to see the completed house, and I think it will be finished before the stupid Edinburgh Tram Works which seem to be never-ending.

I had some art work to share my room with!

So wedding plans are in full swing, and I am delighted to announce that I shall be Granny Gael in the New Year! (maybe the above ‘art picture’ is a sign of what is to come!!!

We spent lovely sunny days wandering about Penarth and the surrounding area and wandered about the Llandaff cathedral where the bishop who gave his name to a particularly lovely dahlia presided.

We visited Barry Island, legendary home of ‘Gavin and Stacey’ and lost a whole £3 on the gaming machines…on the 2p tables. Such fun! My most inexpensive day so far!

Before I left Doha Carol, Rose and I sewed up the bunting that John had carefully cut out, and we had about 150 m of the stuff…Tasha and friend tried it out in the church hall, and it is perfect. Phew!

John collected me and we drove over to the Mumbles in the Gower Peninsula, and walked down to the sea on one of the Three Cliff walks passing the Rest Home that once was the house of Dylon Thomas.

I knew that Joyce and Al from the US were visiting in the area, (friends from Sabah days around 1982) so I said to John as we drove through Bishopstone…’drive slowly, you never know’. Well! There they were, and we had lunch and it was wonderful. Their little grandson was intent in licking all the chips, but we shall gloss over that! ‘My name is Tor and I am free.’ Ok. We have all that ahead of us!

We stayed the night in a beautiful Georgian hotel in Ross-on-Wye….Oh my! What a pretty town, all medieval and quaint, and the sun shone and we drank a bottle of red wine overlooking the greenest of gardens and celebrated the last day of John’s old year before he woke up to his birthday.

Onwards to Evesham where we had lunch with his sister Di and husband Roy, who were also looking after a baby grandson. This pair needed L’s on their backs as they struggled with gadgets and prams, and John marched round and round pushing the reluctant sleeper to sleep. The wasps were plaguing me and the salad, so lunch outside under the trees had to be abandoned, unfortunately. Good to see them though.

The holiday seems to have been centred around houses somehow. We had idly thought of moving from the city, and so set up a couple of viewings of places that included gardens and garages etc, and went to the pretty village of Dunkeld, the gateway to the Highlands. But alas, the house was too dinky, and too remote. The cathedral on the banks of the River Tay was worth a look, and we duly quoted the poet, McGonagall’s verse about the silvery Tay that runs from Perth to Dundee a day!

Gerry and Cathal are house hunting like mad.

We went with Gerry on Sunday and looked at areas outside Edinburgh, where you should be able to find a house with a few bedrooms that would fall into their budget. But it is so depressing. The estates that have grown up are without local amenities, people commute to work so there is no evidence of a community. Some don’t even have a decent bus service. It felt like a wildernesses of loneliness. As Billy Connolly once said about some of the dreadful housing schemes in Glasgow, they are ‘deserts wi  windaes’. Anyway they are looking about and are off to see some more this weekend, I am sure the right place will turn up soon.

John is off back to Doha now, but we did have a good break, though a little frenzied. Ideally it would have been good to have had one more week together for just walking about and cycling and enjoying this pretty city. We did have a laugh walking back from town and seeing some lads shouting at one another….John commented that there were a lot of foreigners about.  I told him that they weren’t foreign, they were very very local and what they were actually saying was, ‘Shut yer mooth!’ in a variety of aggressive ways! Following that incident we then  had the pleasure of meeting a very ‘big mooth’ in the Botanics.

‘Whit dae you dae?’ he asked John then didn’t wait for an answer but proceeded to tell us the story of his life. He was personable and funny but what I loved was the language…he told us that he had been giving evidence in court, and he refused to listen to the prosecuting lawyer, instead he transferred his mind to his herbaceous border. He thought about his delphiniums and butterflies, and he just refused to let the man get him riled. When he was asked to give his opinion of the accused, he told the judge, ‘he was so crooked he couldn’t lie straight in his bed!’

He went on, ‘You can haud a thief’s hand, but you cannae haud a liar’s tongue!’

The judge was so impressed apparently she has been known to quote our friend on many an occasion!

Love it, love the people we meet, the stories we hear.

Some photos from here and there…

 

 

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Happy News

Happy News!

Ding Dong the wedding bells are soon to chime, and I shall be Mother-of-the-Bride, take 2! Natasha and Leo suddenly announced that they are to be wed in September! Oh my, and we are all in a tizz. We leave Doha Wednesday night for summer hols at home, then I shall stay on and return to Doha after the ‘do’. Sadly John won’t be able to attend the wedding, so I shall be modelling my lovely blue ‘designer-dress’ alone.

The photo below was taken in Glenelg Primary School, with Natasha as the blushing bride, and Alan McDiarmid not really interested and the fellow in the red tights keeping well away from the proceedings! Let’s hope the REAL thing looks better!

Exciting times… one minute the family is scattered all over the place then in a twinkling we shall be united again for the happy event. Nick will fly over from Oz, and Gerry and Cathal will be there, so we shall all have lots to talk about (e.g. quilting HA HA!).

It all sounds wonderful. The ceremony will be in Cardiff City Hall, full of beauty and art denoting the Victorians’ civic pride, then it’s off to Penarth for a Greek banquet with a lamb on a spit, champagne on a roof terrace overlooking the sea, then lunch in the restaurant, then on to Penarth Church Hall for a dance with the wild Cat’s Claw Ceilidh Band! (It could be a scene from the Highland Games!)

My sewing friends here have offered to help me sew bunting and decorations for the hall, so we shall do that on Tuesday. Natasha says her theme is rainbow colours, so material for that that is easy to get in the souks here.

Not much else to report as the searing hot winds in Qatar are a nightmare. You just cannot go out, and as it is still Ramadan, there is little point in going out anyway as everything is closed during the day. We did venture to the beach one Friday but it was too hot. The seawater was hotter than my bath and the heat is exhausting. We have been ogling DVDs and have gobbled up ‘Mad Men’ and ‘Breaking Bad’. As a break from the series routine we decided to watch a Bear Grylls, and chose his survival tricks in the Sahara. Oh dear God. I couldn’t sleep that night with visions of him munching beetles and scorpions, barbecuing snake and biting into a live frog to survive. I cannot dwell on goats’ testicles and grubbing about inside a camel’s stomach and scooping up handfuls of water as though it were a cool mountain stream. It was all too awful.

So naturally, with all this Ramadan restrictions, I have been in sewing heaven, stitching away the hours, and have made a rather dramatic quilt which will be bordered in mountains depicting the seasons. I have even hand-dyed the sky colours. I did finish the original one then I got inspired and ambitious. It took me the whole day to cut and place all the segments of the snowy scene. I was squatting on the floor and standing up and ironing and then squatting… I must have done it about 100 times. At night I could barely sit down, as my lower back and thigh muscles were in spasms. This quilting lark is not for Jessies.

 

So Adios from Doha for now. Next time I write I may be in Edinburgh or Wales… and the time will be passing until I see another daughter married. Working on Rastamouse was a good move for them both, and I don’t  think they envisioned that they would buy a house and tie the knot in the pretty little town of Penarth. As for me, ‘Bring on the Cat’s Claw!’, I say.

 

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

A Gentle Art for Gentle Women

A gentle art for gentle women.

Sewing, the art for gentle women, or so I thought. I have had my share of frustrations these last few months, what with dropping the iron, sewing wonky seams, unpicking until the fabric is frayed, then pricking my finger and bleeding on to the material – it has all been very cathartic. But all that paled into insignificance on Tuesday when I put the needle right through my left index finger and was running around with my hand above my head, swathed in tissues to try and stop the bleeding… It wasn’t actually all that sore, though the sound it made was sickening. I think I was in shock! Anyway I covered it in Betadine and put on 3 plasters and took a Paracetamol and survived. The needle had broken and I couldn’t find the point, maybe it’s still in my finger!

 

Anyway I have finished the crazy quilt, and it really is quite nice, and now I am embarking on a brand new topic… of creating a linear landscape quilt. I watch the lessons on the computer and then I am supposed to go and ‘do’. So far I have just ‘watched’ but I have collected some fabric together that I can possibly use. I may start next week.

 

After the trauma of the needle incident, I thought of how often my thoughts have gone to the grave as I sew. The sampler quilt was going to be my shroud, the others were heirlooms, and this new fancy one is like a coat of many colours… they all seem to be a vehicle for memory, for lasting after I have gone, and it is all rather macabre.

I read about some pioneer ladies in America, and of how they sewed their quilts from sugar bags and scraps, and created some wonderful patterns. They were mainly serviceable items, and I had to smile, as Mrs Patton no longer used quilts on her bed. Instead, she had used an electric blanket for the last ten or fifteen years!

‘I make quilts for the beauty, and not for the service,’ Mrs. Stanley said. ‘I just appreciate beautiful quilts, I do, really. When you appreciate something, you want to possess some of it… Possession is a whole lot, isn’t it, in life? Possessing things? I believe it is with me.’

(Me too, I find it very hard to give my quilts away!)

So they sewed to commemorate an occasion, a birth, a marriage or a festival, and they got together and shared the experience. Others sewed to adorn their houses, with quilts full of symbols rather like the altar pieces of Italy. I remember learning about the analogy of flowers in religious paintings, and the representation of saints by their significant signs: Saint Peter had the keys, Saint Catherine the wheel, Saint Sebastian the arrows etc. The American quilts show pineapples for hospitality, and pomegranates for fruitfulness.

 

Stories have always been depicted in thread, there was of course the Bayeux Tapestry that has survived through the centuries ,

 

and in Scotland we have another great masterpiece that has been made by the collective needles of ladies of Scotland, it is The Great Tapestry of Scotland and is due to go on show in the autumn. My friend Dilly has proudly been part of that endeavour. The finished work will be hung in the Scottish Parliament.

Then I got to thinking about the two famous Scottish needlewomen who left their marks with their needles. Mary Queen of Scots used embroidery as a form of therapy and communication. Most of the motifs she depicted were copied from the wood-cut illustrations of emblem books and natural histories. She sewed during her time of imprisonment by Elizabeth and she left the most amazing piece of work called the Marian Hanging which comprised 37 blocks of her most famous pieces.

 

 

The other famous Scottish lady was Phoebe Traquair (1852-1936).

 

Phoebe’s work adorns many churches and other buildings in Edinburgh, and she is known to be one of the leading Scottish artists of her day. I particularly love her tapestries that hang in the Art Gallery on Princes Street. She made her name internationally after painting the ceiling of the Catholic Apostolic Church in Broughton Street which has been called ‘Edinburgh’s Sistine Chapel’.

 

Anyway, it is the ‘Progress of the Soul’ that captivated me.

The human soul is represented by an ideal young man dressed in an animal skin, in harmony with the rich pattern of the luxuriant natural world around him. She was inspired by the earlier work of John Donne. Now that man had a mighty problem of separating the soul from the body. He saw the body and soul more as equals, inter-dependent on one another and both reluctant to leave the other. Throughout his poetry and prose, Donne wrestles with defining the relationship between body and soul, but it was not until he became part of the clergy in 1615 that he ‘officially endorsed the view that the soul separated from the body at death’.

His poem ‘Of the Progress of the Soul’ (that later inspired Phoebe) discusses a man who has been beheaded.

By force of that force which before, it wonne, Or as sometimes in a beheaded man, Though at those two Red seas, which freely ran, One from the Trunke, another from the Head, His soule be saild, to her eternall bed, His eies will twinckle, and his tongue will roll, As though he beckned, and cal’d backe his Soul, He graspes his hands, and he puls up his feet, And seemes to reach, and to step forth to meet His soule […]

Donne’s beheaded man is reluctant to part with his soul. In the next few lines of the poem, he compares this wrenching of soul from body both with the jolting sounds of the crack of ice and of a string breaking on a lute.

Right, I got off on a tangent there… but Phoebe’s tapestries are really worth seeing, her work is beautiful, full of luscious colour and texture. She has left a wonderful collection of treasures to see and admire. She led a well-documented life, for she was no shrinking violet.  I do hope she and her soul are at peace and I hope John Donne is too, for he spent his life wrestling with the impossible, trying to make sense of things we cannot know.  To keep to the theme of today, I found it significant that Phoebe designed her own gravestone, and Donne wrote his own elegy.

All this soul-searching came from stabbing my finger! Life, death, heirlooms and shrouds. Oh dearie me, I shall end with Shakespeare…

What is love? ‘Tis not hereafter, Present mirth hath present laughter. What’s to come is still unsure. In delay there lies no plenty, Then come kiss me, sweet and twenty. Youth’s a stuff will not endure.

 And I am surrounded by colour and joy and achievement…

Posted in 2013 | Leave a comment

Doha Summer

Doha Summer

Well we can all relax. Apparently the mutton crisis has passed. Ramadan is almost upon us and the newspapers were full of the worry that there might not be enough sheep to assuage the starving fasters for the sun down meal. More worrying is the sight of the long queues of four wheel drives snaking out to the booze souk. John and I amongst them, buying as though it might be our last chance ever to savour the sweet taste of the ‘water of life’. The shopping trip was manic but worth it, and now each night we can say, ‘cheers’ knowing there will be plenty to see us through this ‘dry’ month!

Talking about dry, we have had hot temperatures, though not as bad as Death Valley, though on Friday I honestly thought I would have to lie down and die of heat exhaustion and leave my bones beside the turtle shells.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The beach was beautiful, but the wind was unbearable, blowing hotter than the already 46C. I took refuge in the sea, and floated on the salty waves.  After a mouthful of hot water from the bottles, (John just said, imagine it’s tea) we decided to walk along the beach to see how the turtle egg incubation was doing…The area is still fenced, and netted to protect them from Arab speedy nutcases in beach buggies, and wicked cormorants who eye the area with a beady eyeballs. Poor little turtles. How can they survive? It is a miracle they are not cooked in their shells.

Walking back, I was horrified at my shadow, for my hair had spiked up and dried with all the salt. I looked just like the nightmarish depictions of Struwwelpeter by Henreich Hoffmann.

I remember as a child being scared half to death by the book of strange moral tales, and then later on I think I passed on the legacy to my children. See what happens if you suck your thumb…hmmmm. No gentle psychology there.

So Julia Gillard has gone, gracefully and with dignity, inspite of all the aggression and shouting. Here too we saw a passing of the baton, as the Emir abdicated in favour of his son, Tamim. We shall see how the new reign affects us, and how he and his very liberal mother get along. Sheika Mosa has so many forward thinking projects on the go, an Education City, a woman’s hospital, a new cancer hospital and so much more. Her son has already got rid of women teachers in boys’ schools and has segregated classes in Qatar academy. Still, early days.

The whole country was told on Monday night that Tuesday would be a public holiday, so chaos ruled, as the phone lines buzzed to inform everyone. The new Emir and his father would be receiving dignitaries so all the major roads were closed. I did love this picture… of the proud father taking a snap with his phone as his son is pronounced the ruling prince!

The days are whizzing by, and sewing has been top priority as usual. We have been meeting at Benita’s house (the former Australian champion of Latin dance!!..I am such a groupie! I told her I used to go to ballet lessons, but I don’t think she was that impressed.) We have been making mah jong cloths, to stop the tiles clacking about. And I have embarked on another major challenge…a crazy quilt that looks like stained glass. It is such a pain…horrible to quilt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We did go to dinner with Kay and Colin, before they took off for their 5 wk holiday in Italy. The menu was out of this world. Everything made from scratch.

Mixed starters of pork terrine, oven baked tomatoes, pickled walnuts and roasted fig.

Home made pasta with lemon and parlsey

Seared salmon on a bed of wasabi mash with grilled vedg and some jus

Pomegranate and Campari sorbet

Raspberry ice, hazelnut meringue, and lemon icecream.

 

It was WONDERFUL. But sadly we were also farewelling Jenny and Steve who are leaving the desert for pastures new… in Singapore. I shall miss them.

John and I are looking forward to our trip back to Scotland in August and I can’t wait to see Gerry and Cathal in Edinburgh and I have already booked my flight to Cardiff to visit with Natasha and Leo. John will be heading to Worthing to see his kids there.

Today is the first year anniversary of our contract here in Doha, so to celebrate I got my hair cut and we are going out to dine at the Hilton. The time here has flown by, but for me I just can’t find enough hours in the day…Quilts to finish, books to write, friends to see, letters to write, meals to be made and books to be read. I love it all.

 

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Oman

Oman

The first thing I noticed about Muscat was there were no glassy, glitzy skyscrapers, just lots of traditional flat-roofed houses. This was a change from cities in the UAE where each sheikh or emir is competing blatantly for the tallest, fastest or longest in just about everything. We had five luxurious nights in the Shangri la, a resort about 15 miles out of Muscat; it has its own beach and is surrounded by a wall of mountains. It was exquisite.

We took a trip out on a boat so that we could use our new flippers (fins) and snorkels, and we were instantly in a free-for-all real live aquarium, with yellow and black, blue and yellow, silver and blue varieties of fish that had no fear of us, and swam right up to our goggles. But the highlight for us was swimming with turtles.  I couldn’t believe how tame they were, and as I was focussing on a large one down on the rocks, I was trying to tread water with my mighty yellow fins, and suddenly a medium sized turtle swam passed me, I got such a fright!

I remember years ago there was an advert for Rolex, and you saw a girl diving in the Mediterranean then later dancing the night away, and the camera focussed on her ‘Rolex Ladies’ Sports’ – elegant just about anywhere. Well I don’t have a Rolex but I do have a Seiko Ladies’ Sports, and it does just the same thing. I checked for the time whilst in a cloud of fishes that looked like autumn leaves, and then later as I ate a plate of grilled sea food, the same watch looked just as elegant by candle light!

We visited the souk, a quirky lovely place, full of colour and beads and baubles, and the inevitable pashmina: ‘You buy from me, best price. I have llama pashmina, you try?’

I loved the dome on the ceiling; it was a work of art.

I was charmed by two gentlemen of the souk, who were taking a rest, and allowed me to be photographed with them. John called us the Three Muscateers!

Muscat is like a ribbon city, there doesn’t seem to be a central heart, as the various districts are divided by the mountains, and stretch along the coast line. The whole place is like a biblical picture, with the mountains like a Hollywood cardboard cut-out. They are so pointy and like sand-coloured Alps. I was reciting ‘I lift mine eyes unto the hills, from whence cometh my help’ as we zoomed through the passes, and I thought of the Good Samaritan, and how he got clobbered by the bandits. It was very evocative.

After a few days of snorkelling with turtles and drinking margueritas, we decided to take a tour and see some forts. Our guide was Assad (but no relation to the crazy man in Syria, he assured us) and off we went to see the ancient relics where the sultan took rest as he inspected his kingdom in years gone by.

I loved the way they have made all the rooms habitable, and you really got the feel of people having lived there. Our guide decided to demonstrate how to take a rest on the ‘royal bed’. I felt like sending the picture to his boss!

We sat by the hot springs with our feet in the water that flows out of the mountain, and watched the ‘doctor fish’ nibbling our toes. It was so tickly, and I just loved the feeling.

Assad told us so much about the present Sultan Qaboos, who is now 72, and he hopes he will live another 72 years. He is like the father of the people, and is much loved.

A very hands-on ruler, he just builds what he needs, no more. There are beautiful buildings for ministries, hospitals, palaces and an opera house, but he does not see the point of building 64 floor high buildings that we see here in Doha. He also has been known to wear the white dress of the taxi driver (only Omanis can be drivers) and he covered his face with his turban and drove around for a day. When he came back he fired 12 of his government ministers! He also jailed his cousin for driving his Lamborghini at 180 and being drunk at the same time. Equality for all… again, not what would happen here in Doha. His one most amazing luxury was his yacht. When we drove down to the port opposite the souk, I commented to Assad that there were two passenger ships in town. ‘No no no! that is the Sultan’s yacht, and behind it is the other yacht that carries the cars and helicopter!’ He even has his own orchestra on board. Apparently the sheikh of Abu Dhabi decided to build another yacht but he made his 2 metres longer than that of Sultan Qaboos! Such schoolboys.

I think Sultan Qaboos’s most impressive accomplishment is the Grand Mosque. It is the most beautiful place I have ever seen, well for ages anyway.

The huge doors were made in Malaysia from teak wood, the Swarovski crystal chandeliers and all the 2,211 lights are from Austria, the carpet in the woman’s prayer room was from Scotland (!) and the ceiling wood was from Burma.

The great carpet in the main room was made in Iran, by 600 women. It took them 4 years, and is made in one piece. It weighs 21 tonnes of pure silk, and it is exquisite.

The columns are Carrera marble from Italy.

The whole mosque involved thousands of skilled craftsmen from all over the world and only took 6 years to build.

I was just stunned by it all, and I think of some of our beautiful churches, that took centuries to carve and build and are now homes to auction rooms and cafes.

Anyway I had to be covered up, and Assad made me choose a colourful wrap in about 2 seconds, ‘quick quick, choose something, you like this one?’ and so I ended up looking like a piece of curtain that had got loose and was walking about! I suggested I could be Assad’s second wife, and he nearly split his sides!

We wandered through the open walkways and admired the niches, each one depicting a style of eastern mosaic. There was the Cyprus tree, which is supposedly good for dispelling grief and sorrow, there were niches showing myrrh and silver, and filigreed blue lapis lazuli and mother of pearl and Persian depictions of flowers from heaven.

We took a rest at the Islamic education room, where a lady lectured us on love and the wonders of her religion. Because I was sweating so much in my ‘curtain’ I asked her how she survived wearing all the black gear, and head scarves etc., and she then launched into how we must respect and revere our bodies, and keep them safe from the sight of men, who will only degrade them, and worse, ‘you don’t want to awaken  the beast’. Enough said. Assad said when he takes tourists to visit the lady, all that she says goes in one of his ears and out the other!

He thinks too many people go to the mosque just for exercise (all that bowing). He would rather pray from his heart.

Later lounging on the beach of the Shangri la in my itsy bitsy green bikini, I looked at all the men. They looked totally unconcerned, and not in the slightest bit interested!

We came back to Doha, and all hell was raging. The winds had been blowing up sand and dust for 4 days and still it was a nightmare to go out. Glass had been falling from buildings and when I did venture forth to go to City Centre to buy milk at Carrefour, I was really quite scared. I later washed my hair and it was full of sand. Poor poor guys who work out in the desert, for there are no nice air conditioned apartments for them to escape to, just rows of workers’ huts.

Today it looks calmer and there are no white horses on the sea, so that is a relief.

I believe the Emir of Qatar is stepping down in favour of the Heir Apparent, though there has been nothing in the papers… We await further news, and wonder how it will affect us all, if at all.

And the Sultan of Oman, I wonder what he is doing today. Is he lecturing at the mosque (being Friday) or is he masquerading as a taxi driver or is he just wandering about his grand palace or listening to Bach played by his orchestra on his yacht? So  many choices.

As for me, I am about to have some sushi and a champagne cocktail! How perfect is that!

Posted in 2013, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Quiet days

Quiet days. I did a marathon sewing session last Wednesday in order to finish all my stuff to take to the Guild for ‘sew and tell’. I duly held them all up and felt very happy with my achievements.

Image2783

 

I am now in a lull, before I start another sewing class tomorrow. Life has lost that drive, and I feel a bit in a vacuum. I can’t relate to ‘groups’ where the conversation revolves around how long you have been here and how long you are going to stay. Do you play mah jong? Did you hear that there is a new Mall opening? I have always been hopeless at that, so instead have chosen more solitary pursuits. Then I get lonely…oh my, it is a vicious circle.

So, I have returned to creating my own world. Made great strides into one book, then suddenly I started writing about the Highlands again. Is it possible to write two books at once? They are so different, and reflect two parts of me, so maybe I can.  They are going to be called The Fish in the Tree and The Highland Curse. There…I have to do it now!

We did go to a party on Friday night, but our host had fallen down and hurt his ankle so was like a pasha with his foot up, meeting his public. Lovely home, lovely food, and I did enjoy the champagne cocktails. I am going to make them now. John and I spent ages and ages talking to an Iraq/Turkish/Manchester mix of a man. He runs 9 companies here, has lived here for 19 years, and has an MBE which he lost in the dry cleaners. He has written to the Palace to get a replacement. Having the lingo, he can understand all the ‘asides’ that go on in business, and often says when leaving a meeting, ‘Be careful, my brother when you speak Arabic!’

We did go to the beach and the wind was whipping the sand right into the egg sandwiches. The only people who had fun were the kite surfers, as they rode the waves at breath taking speeds. It was a relief to get back and wash up, and then go to see the film ‘Hummingbird’. Such a good film. We have been lucky lately, as last week we saw ‘Disconnect’. There can be nothing for ages then suddenly they all come at once. Did smile as we came out of the cinema and saw an advert for Halle Berry’s new film. Doha authorities obviously did not approve of her posing in her bra, so they coloured in a T shirt with marker pens to make her more respectable! Funny.

Image2781

 

This week is going to be wonderful. Tuesday is sewing, then on Wednesday we are off to Oman for five nights!

Posted in 2013 | Leave a comment

In sickness and in health!

I’m sitting here in my emeralds, with shorts and T shirt, smelling of sandalwood. My face is lathered in the cream from Sri Lanka, so I can’t frown or move a muscle. I feel quite ready to start the day.

John has Man Flu and is indisposed today…first time he has been brought down for about 3 years, so he is lying spluttering and moaning surrounded by tissues, Lem Sips and Paracetamol.

I was struck down last week with Woman Hip. Came out of the blue, and one minute I was bouncing about in the sea, and relaxing on the beach, the next I was moaning about my hip and dragging my leg around the supermarket.

I spent the night on the sofa, as the pain became more and more acute. I went to the hospital in the morning and had to spend the day in ER attached to a drip and had 5 injections to kill the pain…it was Greater Trochanteric Pain Syndrome. It used to be called bursitis, and apparently is very common in women of a ‘certain age’ and can become inflamed for a variety of reasons. Ah well…came home with the usual bag of medication, and spent the following day vomiting. My body is a temple and will not tolerate these vile toxins, and so I lay and shivered and clutched The Hip.  Anyway, I stuck with the diclofenac, and threw away the other evil stuff and I am now on the mend. I am still limping, but the worst is over.

I don’t believe in the Evil Eye…but it does make you wonder. I had been crowing how healthy I had been blah blah blah….best to keep quiet and give thanks I think!

 

We have been quiet since Sri Lanka. I came back all rejuvenated and wanted to finish all my projects. I finished all my quilts, and the bags, and am all set for the last Guild meeting where we do Sew and Tell. I tidied up my sewing room last night, and it looks so strange. I sort of miss the colourful confusion that has been spread over the spare beds these last few months.

Image2774 Image2776 Image2777 Image2778

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This last week we have all held our breaths as a horrid drama unfolded at Qatar Academy.

 

A Nepalese chemistry teacher, Dorje Garung had been the victim of some nasty school boy taunts. He had held his tongue as the thirteen year old Arab students constantly made fun of his appearance, calling him Jackie Chan etc. He finally retaliated, saying that you shouldn’t stereotype people. There was more along that line, and of course the boys told their parents and the Chemistry teacher was fired without any opportunity to voice his side of the story.

On the way to the airport Dorje was arrested for slights against Islam. He was thrown into jail. There followed the biggest protest on Facebook as teachers around the world united against this unfair outcome. Other teachers at Qatar Academy were very uneasy at the power pupils wielded in that VERY affluent school. The good thing is that Dorje has been freed and is back in Nepal. I doubt he will seek employment in the Middle East again.

 

Here the temperature is climbing up again. People are talking about ‘the summer’ and leaving and going home for a bit. I have decided to get back to Chapter 8 of the book I started before the quilting bug bit. ‘About time’, John mutters from his sick bed.

 

But I shall leave with the good news. The Highland Games as been awarded a B.R.A.G. Medallion. I am very happy and proud of that! www.bragmedallion.com I have just been told so it won’t be on the website just yet…but sooooon! All good publicity and I’m glad the book is still  making people happy!

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Sri Lanka – Ella, Kandy to Colombo

From the beach to the jungle….Ella was just beautiful.Image2750

Image2746

Image2752Image2755

I got up that first morning and went out on the terrace to look at the waterfalls and maybe get a glimpse of a kingfisher or a monkey…When I turned round; I found 2 monkeys sitting on the roof staring at me! I got quite a fright.

DSC05215

Karen and Martin have a lovely relaxed way about them and make everyone so welcome. We ate communal meals and exchanged stories with back packers, Dutch travellers, an English honeymoon couple and a German couple. The German girl asked the honeymoon girl what her wedding was like. ‘Well,’ she said, ‘there was food and speeches.’ Hmm, talk about playing it down! I asked her about her dress…it was white. OK…and guests? Oh yes, there were 250! So, a modest affair then!

Our meals were all Sri Lankan, made by Karen and her house boy and Tuc Tuc driver…I have never tasted such exquisite combinations. Image2757

DSC05214

We walked up little Adam’s Peak, and gazed at the hills of tea swirling below us, and trudged along the main rail way line to see the waterfalls. DSC05170

DSC05174

DSC05133

DSC05132

We were quite appalled at the state of the track, the sleepers were all at angles and some parts had broken away. Still this train line is a legacy of Victorian engineering, which opened up the hill country from Colombo to Kandy to Badulla. I lay down on the track, re-enacting a Silent Movie where the heroine is tied to the tracks as the train hurtles forward. One of my more mature moments.

DSC05157

We almost got killed in a tuc tuc going over the hills to Bandarawela. On the left hand side of the road was a sheer drop, we were up about 1000ft, and suddenly the tuc tuc skidded to the right, coming to a stop when it hit a rock in the verge. The front wheel axel had broken. It was quite sobering. It could so easily have veered to the left and the three of us would have been history.

Anyway, onwards and upwards, we did go to Bandarawela and saw the morning market. I bought some guavas, and the lady insisted on piling on more and more, and I kept saying, ‘Stop! Enough!’ and all the sellers just grinned…it was like looking at a continuous line of shiny teeth!

DSC05192 DSC05196 DSC05201

We ate curry lunch at the Bandarawela Hotel…a stately old lady of a time gone by. It’s shade and shabby elegance was so welcome after the noise and bustle of the town and the market…I felt quite the memsahib, replete after my luncheon!

DSC05206DSC05205

The first class train to Kandy was like riding a bucking bronco…we were rattled about as we climbed the steep hills and wound our way around the tea estates. On board we met Joe and Janet, from Canada. They have been ‘at sea’ for 18 years, and have spent the last 8 years in SE Asia…mostly around Penang and Thailand. Their little boat, ‘Tegan’ is all equipped with the latest gadgets and they say sailing is so much easier than when they started out. The best innovation they have found is the introduction of ATMs…they make arrival in different countries so much easier.

They had left their boat in Galle and were now seeing the sights before going on to Madagascar and then on to S. Africa. Both were in their 70s.

Kandy, the cultural capital of Sri Lanka is surrounded by green hills and in its centre is the lake. Sitting on that is the celebrated Temple of the Tooth. (Buddha’s) We learnt all about it, and walked about and prayed and donated lotus blossoms in the hope that our prayers might be heard and answered.

DSC05222DSC05229

Then the real reality of Kandy hit us…the urban sprawl, the con artists, and the hassle.  We spent a good hour in the doorway of a shop as the monsoon lashed down its fury in forked lightening and blood curdling thunder. It was actually wonderfully exciting. We watched people dash about with gay umbrellas, soaked from the knee downwards.

DSC05237DSC05235

We were so rejuvenated after the storm and I had given up worrying about my sodden long orange skirt as we waded our way through the rivers that, only an hour ago, were the streets. It was by sheer luck that we found the Buddha that we had been searching for. A bronze image of Avalokitesvara in an ‘at ease’ pose. We paid a small fortune for him, and John mightily carried him back to the hotel.

Image2767

The Planter’s Hotel was true to its name. A place where once the planters came from their lonely hill stations for some R&R. It is now run by a Sri Lankan Hercule Poirot look-alike. He was small, dapper and minced about and took wonderful care of us. It was all very basic, but the building still retained its elegance, and beautiful wooden floors. Sadly it now needs a lot of money to upgrade…and who has that, in this day and age?

DSC05252

The Lake itself was a living Zoo…ancient trees (all labelled in Latin) housed monkeys (by the hundreds) and pelicans, bats, egrets, and all the other treasures that ornithologists rave about. They all seemed to live so peacefully together. All sharing the same branch. Not often you get a pelican, bat, monkey, cormorant and striped squirrel in the same photo!

???????????????????????????????DSC05243

DSC05242DSC05220

We visited the elephant orphanage, where we saw about 50 elephants having their 12 o’clock dip in the shallow river. It was so natural, babies cavorted about, teenagers were feeling horny, mums were looking bored, and there were a couple heavily in chains. These are elephants that have been injured in the wild, and need treatment. They are kept for a while, then released, but they need to be chained as they are a risk to humans. I kept my distance. We had already had one scrape with death on this holiday…didn’t fancy being trampled.

DSC05265DSC05280DSC05266DSC05262

 

 

And then the escape from Kandy…there were no first class seats or second on the train to Colombo, so John and I bravely found a carriage with 2 seats in 3rd class. We were lucky, for when the train pulled out; it was standing room only, some people just hanging on to the door frames. It was a LONG journey, and we were crushed by humanity. I couldn’t really appreciate the amazing British engineering project, that had forged this link, tunneling through the rocks 1,500 m up in the mountains. We had seen the lack of maintenance further up the line…tried not to think about it. Enough said…we did it. We are worthy travellers, and we fare -welled our journey companions as though long lost friends.

First thing we did on arrival, was book into a 5 star hotel in Colombo and stand under a red hot shower….oh dear God, it was good!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We did visit the old Galle Fort Hotel on the esplanade…another old lady that ranks with the Strand in Rangoon, and Raffles in Singapore…beautiful charm, and a nice cup of tea, but I am glad we chose the Cinnamon Grand…it was a perfect end for a very different holiday. We didn’t stay on the tourist path, we missed lots of things the guide books said we ‘should’ see, but there we go. It is all about time, and roads and vehicles…Sri Lanka still has no fast high ways, travelling is tedious, and long. But the views are stunning. Every window we looked out of, whether a car, a train, or a van, could have been a framed picture. So beautiful – jungles, trees, beaches, waterfalls and seascapes.  And we have the photographs, and the memories and the Buddha and the sapphires. Nice.

DSC05163DSC05160

Posted in 2013 | Leave a comment