Italy Part 2 – Sicily

Monday morning and off to the station. We joined the throng of commuters as we rushed to catch our train heading to the Ionian Coast. This is Sicily’s most popular tourist destination. We had no idea what to expect, but after the Amalfi Coast, we expected it to be more touristy that busy Palermo.

The train pulled in to Taormina station and we looked about. No sign of a town. So into a taxi and away we went, up, up and up and round so many snake bends! The town sits on a terrace of Monte Tauro, overlooking the sea, and is so beautiful. It was wealthy, touristy, and also sporting a very grand Greek theatre that has Mount Etna framed in the background. We hauled our bags through the pedestrianised Corso Umberto and climbing ever more stairs we finally found our three storey holiday house.

But here in this beautiful place was where we were meeting up with Natasha, Leo, Bonnie and Hazel. We had a fabulous reunion over salad and pasta then wandered about eating ice cream. Bonnie was desolated after leaving her last ‘holiday house’ as it had been on an olive farm and the house had come complete with five cats and a whole lot of kittens!

Hazel was very pleased to have more arms to cuddle her, and that evening Leo cooked dinner using giant mushrooms bought fresh from a street stall. So much nicer than the bandits who served the sardines.

We had to take a cable car down to the beach, to Isola Bella, set in a stunning cove.

Unfortunately, it was comprised hard round stones so not the best for lounging on. Still we ate our picnic, and Bonnie thought it was good idea to try and bury me in stones. She said I was a bit like a bouncy castle. I tried not to be offended. Leo did say that I would leave Scotland like me and end up like an Italian Nonna.

He and Bonnie ventured into the water, and Natasha tried snorkelling. John and I played with Bonnie and watched sleeping Hazel.

The following day was my birthday. And for the special day we had booked a tour of Mount Etna. No way were we allowed to go to the summit (as we did in Vesuvius) for Etna had had an eruption in March this year.

But we went with the most amazing guide, a geologist and historian, in a jeep up to the lava flows and the craters. We saw and learnt so much. He stopped and spouted all his knowledge, then as we climbed higher, he pointed out rocks and related history of each lava flow. We climbed all day, Leo with Bonnie on his shoulder and Natasha with Hazel strapped to her chest. I was exhausted just by myself.

At one point, John marked a point in the lava with a cross. He called Bonnie and she started digging. Could this be the famous treasure of Etna? She dug some more, and yes –  she found it. Three small pots and urns from bygone days. She was amazed and guarded them with her life, then later filled them with lava and small black crystals. It is good being three and a half!

My birthday lunch was in a lovely mountain restaurant. We ate delicious pasta and drank some wine. Then later at home Natasha brought in a cake and they all sang for me. It was a good day.

The next day we explored the Greek Theatre, built in the 3^rd century BC.  I had Hazel to myself for a while, and set her down on an ancient column, the old with the new, and wondered about life and its passing. She has so much ahead of her. And this theatre has seen so many performances throughout the centuries. Hard to take in.

Maybe it’s better just to go to a café and eat cake and drink coffee.

Sadly we had to part. John and I had to return to Palermo to catch the ferry back to Naples, and the little family had to return to Wales. But what a special place to share some time together.

Our last day in Naples saw us on the Metro making our way to get the open-top Hop-on Hop-off bus. The highlight of this tour was the stop at Capodimonte. This colossal palace was once a hunting lodge for the Charles V11 but now its it a fantastic museum. It houses the Farnese collection, and we saw Botticelli, Caravaggio, Masaccio and Titian. The latter made me gasp; it was Mary Magdalen. I remember just starting the Open University and my very first essay was on this picture. And here she was, unexpectedly, like an old friend!

We saw Belgian tapestries, holy families, amazing rooms, one even done out totally in porcelain. It was all just too much, too big but I am so glad we saw it.

Coming back through the maze of streets, our bus stopped at a red light. I yawned, and suddenly I realised I was being watched. A delightful man was leaning out of his balcony and mimicked my yawn and we shared the moment! Nice.

We are home now, and I am so pleased to be back on my own pillow, and am relishing being able to just drink water from the tap. I do not want another pizza, or a sandwich made from great chunks of bread, for at least a year,  But I must admit I was enthralled with the last room we had in Naples, and may have plans to recreate a bathroom perhaps in a more flamboyant style!

So my jigsaw collection of tickets can be stored along with the guide books of all the great sights, and although it was just two weeks, I think we gained a window into another world. Arriva derci!